Permanent waving apparatus



June 28, 1938. G. B. FINNEGAN, JR

PERMANENT WAVING APPARATUS Filed May 2, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet l V ai l 4 mIn,

`lune 28, 1938. G. B. FINNEGAN, .WeV l2-2,134

PERMANENT wAvING APPARATUS Filed May 2, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet '2 M Wm TfINVENTOR l B'Y M Patented June 28, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT orricPERMANENT WAVING APPARATUS Application May 2, 1935, Serial No. 19,356

Claims.

The invention relates to permanent waving and more particularly to novelmethods and means of effecting the heating action in the permanentWaving process by the resistance of a liquid to 5 electrolytic`conduction.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in parthereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned bypractice with the invention, the same being realized and attained bymeans of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in theappended claims. v

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements,combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a parthereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together withthe description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a central longitudinal section of an apparatus embodying theinvention;

Fig. 2 is an end elevationv of the apparatus shown in Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a section on line 3-3 of Fig. l, parts being shown inelevation;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section similar to Fig. l of a modied form ofthe apparatus; v

Fig. 5 is a section similar to Fig. 3 taken o Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary section showing a modiiied form of protector;

Fig. '7 is a longitudinal section similarto Fig. l F showing anothermodification;

Fig. 8 is a section on line 8 8 of Fig. '7; and

Fig. 9 is a section on line 9--9 of Fig. 7.

The invention is directed to providing novel and useful improvements inpermanent Waving, especially that type of waving known ascroquignole,the improvements relating both to the heating and steamingof the curls and to the handling of the various devices and materialsfor treating and heating the wound curl. 'Ihese improvements are chieyapplicable to methods and means for permanent waving wherein theresistance of liquid, preferably a hair waving liquid, to theelectrolytic conduction of currents is utilized to create the heat forsteaming and softening the hair. Improvements in the facility ofapplying the waving and heating media are provided, while another objectof the invention is to provide simple and easily operable means for' 55steaming a Croquignole-wound curl throughout (Cl. :E19-24) substantiallyits entire circumference without endangering or discommoding thecustomer.

In Croquignole waving as generally practiced, the hair is divided intotresses which are wound spirally about a curler or mandrel, the windingbeing done from the free ends of the tress toward the scalp and the hairusually being kept in the shape of a fiat band or ribbon while beingwound under tension. Before Winding the tress of hair is usually grippedjust above the scalp with a clamp which also serves to space the woundcurl from the scalp and act as a heat-guard or scalpprotector. 'Ihe hairis usually moistened with the hair waving lotion to facilitate handlingand winding and to supply lotion adjacent the hair. With this type ofwaving, the problem of heating the curl is diicult because the usualarcuate metallic resistance heater is necessarily positioned close tothe scalp where it radiates much heat at a high temperature. Alsobecause of the overlapping hair convolutons, the ends of the curl arecovered by several layers of hair so that the exterior part of the curl,comprising the hair near the scalp, is naturally heated to a greaterextent than the ends adjacent the curler. Consequently the heatingaction is non-uniform and usually weaker than it should be for the bestresults in some parts of the curl, so that Croquignole curls ordinarilyare less lasting than the other typeA of Winding wherein the hair iswound from the roots outwardly in a helical curl.

B-y the present invention, uniformity of heating is effected throughoutthe curl with consequent improvement in the lasting qualities of thewave. That is, the heat is created within the lotion on and throughoutthe curl so that the heating action takes place in all parts of the curland the temperature quickly reaches and remains at the boiling point ofthe lotion in all parts of,` the curl. Moreover, by utilizing the liquidas the electrical conductor, danger'of burning or drying out the hair iseradicated, as the heating action diminishes with dissipation of theliquid and the consequent increase in resistance until ultimately theheating action ceases due to cessation of current ow. Preferably, ofcourse, a low voltage current is employed to make for complete safetyand comfort.

One form of the invention provides for passing 1 the heating currentthrough or about substantially the entire circumference of theCroquignolewound curl, thereby effecting a practically uniform heatingaction about or around the curl. This feature of the invention is animprovement over known types of Croquignole heating, wherein the heatingaction is usually confined to an arcuate or crescent-shaped heating zoneabout the top and sides of the curl. By the present invention it ispossible to also apply full heating action to the lower or scalp side ofthe Croquignole curl without harming or inconveniencing the customer andwithout detracting from the simplicity of the construction or ease ofoperation of the mechanism.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and thefollowing detailed description as well are exemplary and explanatory ofthe invention but are not restricted thereto.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred.

embodiment of the invention, illustrated by way of example in theaccompanying drawings, one form thereof is shown in Figs. l, 2 and 3. Asshown, a at or ribbon-like tress of hair A is wound Croquignole fashionabout a curler or mandrel I of generally conventional design, having arelatively thin median portion and enlarged ends to accommodate thevarying thickness of the curl. Said curler is capacitated to act as anelectrode in the heating circuit, being preferably made or surfaced witha suitable electrode metal, such as Zinc for example.

One end of the curler is provided with tightening means such as a handle2, the opposite end having suitable ratchet teeth 3 or the like forassisting in the tightening operation.

Means for clamping the tress during winding and supporting the woundtress and curler during the heating operation comprises a Croquignoleclamp or protector of any known and suitable design. The clamp consistsof two jaw members 5 which are relatively long and narrow and areadapted to be opened or spread apart to engage the tress and may beclosed and fastened in a tight gripping position by any suitable means,several forms of which are well known in the art and are not shown hereas they constitute no essential part of the present invention. Thehair-gripping faces of the clamp are provided with suitable frictionalmaterial 6 of rubber, felt or the like, which acts to tightly grip thehair and to prevent hot leakage through the clamp. The under faces ofthe clampy members 5 are preferably formed of felt, soft rubber orsimilar yielding absorbent material 'l which lies adjacent the scalp. Aheat resisting layer or insulating plate 8, preferably formed of wood,bakelite, or the like, may be xed to and positioned above the absorbentlayer 'I. The upper surface of the clamping jaws preferably comprises ametal facing 9 which acts as a frame for the clamp and, in certain formsof the invention, cooperates as an electrode surface and accordingly ispreferably constructed of a suitable electrode metal.

The curler I is adapted to'be mounted in and supported by the clampframe and for such purpose the metal portion or frame of the clamp isstruck up at the end of one of the jaws 5 to form a yoke-like support I0for the reduced end portion II and I2 of the curler I. Suitable pawlmeans, not shown, may be provided for engaging the ratchet teeth 3 totighten the curler. As indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, the curler must formclose electrical contact with the metal frame and facing 9 of the clamp.

. In accordance with the invention outer electrode means are providedfor electrolytically steaming and heating the curl wound on the curler land utilizing said curler as one ofthe electrodes in the heatingcircuit. The outer electrode preferably comprises a pair of arcuate,opposed metal jaw members or segments I 5 and |511 which are adaptedtopivot about a fixed axis 26 and when closed form a substantiallysemi-circular electrode closure adapted to surround and grasp the curlabove the clamp 5 and to form close and positive electrolytio contacttherewith. The opposed electrode segments I5 and |5a are independentlyjournalled to swing on the fixed axle 26. Accordingly each member I5 and|5a 'at' its upper edge is provided with a plurality of spaced apartcylindrical extensions or sleeves 3|] which surround the axle 26 and arespaced therefrom by insulating bushings 3| rotatable with the sleeves30. Said sleeves 30 and bushings 3| are so spaced apart on therespective sides that they will intermesh and abut each other on theaxle 26. The `electrode segments are preferably formed of a suitableelectrode metal such as zinc. Preferably, but not necessarily, theelectrode shells I5 and |5a and their pivotal connections 36 and 3| areprovided with exterior heat and electrical insulating casings I6 and |6arespectively. For enhancing the gripping and closing action of theelectrode segments, sets of spring fingers 40 (Fig. 5) may be mountedexteriorly to urge the jaw segments together, some finger grips 4| beingprovided to force the jaws apart.

If desired, and preferably to promote close electrical contact betweenthe electrode I5 and the moistened hair A, absorbent ply I'I, formed offelt, flannel, blotting paper or the like, may be placed between theelectrode I5 and the surface of the curl.

The embodied means for supplying energizing electric current to theelectrodes I and I5 is preferably embodied as an integral part of thecurl and electrode supporting structure. Contact to the curler I ispreferably made through the metal frame 9-|0, the reduced, upwardlyprojecting ends 2l) of the curler-supporting yoke Ill being adapted toengage the yoke-like socket member 2| of the contacting mechanism. Thesocket yoke 2| is suitably supplied with current from the lead wire 22through any suitable connecting means 23. Contact is preferably made atboth ends of curler I, the similar yoke at the opposite end I2 of thecurler being provided with contact prongs 20 which cooperate with thefemale contacting yoke 25. Electrical transmission is effected be-ltween the yoke members 2| and 25 by the interconnecting metal axle 26.

The means for electrically contacting the curler I are preferablystructurally combined with the means for supporting and applying theouter electrode I5 to the curl, suitable insulating bushings 32 beingmounted on the shaft 26 at either end between the yokes 2| and the edgesof the sleeves 39. Means for making electrical contact of the properpolarity to the outer electrode I5 and |5a comprises Contact stud orrivet 33 extending upwardly from one of the sleeves 3|! and makingspring contact with a suitable socket member 34 which is attached to acircuit wire 35.

In operating the hereinbefore described mechanism, the wound curl ismoistened, both during and after winding, with a suitable electrolytewhich is preferably also the hair-waving lotion usually containingvolatile hair-softening alkali. If desired the lotion saturatedabsorbent mem'- ber I'I may also be placed about the curl. Then theframe |6|6a is fitted about the curl by moving it downwardly to embracethe absorbent Il and/or the curl, bringing the electrodes |5- Cal |ainto contact with the electrolyte. `By the same movement the contactyokes 2| and 25 will engage the prongs 2|) and thereby make contact withthe frame 9 and the curler Suitable knobs 36 may be formed at the oth-erupper end of yokes 2| and 25 for handling the assembled mechanism. Whenthe contact yokes and outer electrode are in place, the outer electrodemay then be placed in circuit by attaching the contact member 34. Ifdesired, suitable switching means for controlling the energization ofall the heating devices may be provided in the heating machine itself.

When the mechanism has 'been connected and applied as described, theelectrolyte on and between the hairs of tress A will conduct currentbetween the electrodes and the resistance thereof will create heat andsteam which will impart a permanent wave to the curl, as disclosed, forexample, in the copending application of Hobart N. Durham and myself,Serial No. 641,576, filed November '7, 1932. The heating action may becontinued so long as desired and may be terminated by breaking thecircuit with a timeswitch or otherwise. If, through inadvertence, thecurrent is maintained for a protracted period, the mounting resistanceof the circuit will gradually eliminate the passage of current until thecurl cools and substantially dries out. Thus there is no danger ofburning the hair.

In the form shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the inner electrode may bemounted'exteriorly of the curl as well as interiorly and Contact theretomade through the frame member 9 of the clamp. As shown an innerelectrode comprising a sheet of metal foil 45 is mounted about the curland in Contact with the inner face of absorbent member Il. Said foilelectrode extends downwardly and outwardly to lie in contact with theupper surface of member 9. Contact with the frame member 9 may beeffected through a circuit wire 416 plugged in at the struck up end ofthe'frame, as by a suitable split male contact member 41. In this formthe curler may also be in the circuit to act as a supplemental innerelectrode, or may be insulated fromv the frame 9 if desired.

In another modification, shown in Fig. 6, the

upper surface of the hair clamp or protector may be formed of aninsulating plate 50 and contact made to the curler I by a yoke-shapedmetal frame 5| mount-ed solely yat the ends of the clamp. In this formthe curler acts alone as the interior electrode and would be utilizedwith the mechanism generally shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3.

In the modified form of the invention shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, Iprovide for electrolytically heating the Croquignole curl throughoutsubstantially its entire circumference by causing the outer electrode toembrace all or nearly all of the outer surface of the curl. As embodied,the upper surface of the hair clamp 5 is provided with a metal electrodemember 6|] which underlies the bottom surface of the curl where itnormally contacts the clamp. Said electrode 50 is formed as a curvedmetal plate adapted to conform substantially to the bottom surface ofthe curl. Said plate 60 may be formed as a fixed part of the clampstructure, but preferably it may be removed and periodically replaced byfresh plates to compensate for corrosion. The shape of the member 6Bwhere it contacts the curl is shown in Fig. 9.

Suitable means are provided for connecting the electrode member 6i! incircuit with the arcuate outer electrode I5 so that they will be of thesame polarity. As embodied, the electrode i5 and its shell jaws I6 aresomewhat modified, the transverse supporting axle 52 being provided withmetal bushings 53 adjacent its ends, which make contact with thecylindrical portion 35 of the outer electrode. Integrally connected withsaid metallic 'bushing 53 at either end of the rod 52 is an arcuatelymovable metal contact arm 55 which is adapted to rock about the axis 52in unison with the electrode jaw members l5. Said Contact arms 55 are ofsubstantially semi-circular outlin-e (Fig. 8) so that in closing theywill span the end of the curler l. The lower ends of the members 54 areprovided with a downwardly extending contact lug 65 which is adapted tomake surface engagement with the electrode plate 5|). Preferably theplate 6U is indented at either end to form a contacting recess ortrackway 56 for receiving the contact lug 65. The contact arm Bil isalso preferably provided with a projecting stop finger 5l which engagesthe lateral edge of the clamp 5 when the electrode casing i6 is in itsclosed position, thereby preventing further movement of the contact arm5d and avoiding short circuiting engagement with the curler l. In otherrespects it will be clear that the construction of the outer electrodei5 and its cooperating parts are operatively similar to that shown anddescribed in connection with Figs. 1, 3 and 5. Means for making circuitconnection with the outer electrode |5 may comprise the contact post 'l5which preferably has spring engagement with the socketed contact knob llattached to the end of the lead wire l2.

Circuit connections of opposite polarity may be made to the curlerthrough the metal end frame member l5 of the clamp 5. As shown, a springcontact stud l5 projects laterally to receive the contact socket on thelead wire '18. The end frame members 'l5 are provided viu'th suitablesupporting and contacting yokes 8D to receive the reduced end portionsand l2 of the curler and transmit current thereto.

As previously stated, the bottom electrode plate 5|] may be formed as .afixed part of the clamping structure 5 or it may be made attachable andremovable at will. In the latter case, the indentations 66 at the endsthereof may be resilient so that they will snap into the correspondingrecesses in the surface of the clamp. When constructed as .a removableelement, the member 50 may be made of very thin metal or a thin bersheet coated with metal foil, so as to be inexpensive for frequentrenewals.

In operation of the form shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, theelectrolyte-moistened hair is wound about the electrode curler and thecurl xed to the' clamp 5 as hereinbefore described. Upon applying theouter electrode l5 (with or without an intervening absorbent member Il)the contact yarms 54 will be swung about the ends of the curler and makecontact with the bottom electrode plate 50, which will be of the samepolarity as the arcuate shell electrode l5. Upon making contact to theinner electrodel from the lead wire 18 and completing the circuit,current will flow through the lotion on the hair between the innerelectrode and the outer electrodes l5 and 55. Thus a substantiallyuniform heating action of almost 360 of the curl circumference will beprovided, the only break in said circuit being the very small arcrequired to admit the root ends of the hair through the clamp jaws.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specicmechanism shown and described but departures may be made therefromwithin the scope of the accompanying claims Without departing from theprinciples of the invention and Without sacrificing its chiefadvantages.

What I claim is:-

1. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clampfor gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tressspirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, saidcurler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionableexteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to thecurler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exteriorelectrode, and an additional electrode surface on the clamp and meansfor connecting it in circuit with the same polarity as the curler.

2. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clampfor gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tressspirally toward the clamp .and for supporting the curl on the clamp,said curler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrodepositionable exteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contactto the curler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to theexterior electrode, and an additional electrode surface on the clamp andmeans for connecting it in circuit with the same polarity as theexterior electrode.

3. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clampfor gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for winding the tressspirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, saidcurler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionableexteriorly of the curl, and an electric circuit terminal of oppositepolarity attached to the exterior electrode but insulated therefrom,said terminal being connectible with a terminal on the clamp which isadapted to contact electrically With the curler, said terminals beingmoved into electrically connecting position upon application of theexterior electrode to the curl.

4. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clampfor gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for Winding the tressspirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, saidcurler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionableexteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to thecurler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exterio-relectrode, an additional electrode surface on the clamp between the curland the clamp and means positioned by the application of the exteriorelectrode for making electrical contact With said surface.

5. A permanent Waving heating device including in combination a clampfor gripping a tress at the scalp, a curler for winding the tressspirally toward the clamp and for supporting the curl on the clamp, saidcurler being adapted to act as an electrode, an electrode positionableexteriorly of the curl, means for making electrical contact to thecurler, means for making contact of opposite polarity to the exteriorelectrode, an additional electrode surface on the clamp between the curland the clamp and means positoned by the application of the exteriorelectrode for making electrical contact with said surface of the samepolarity as said exterior electrode.

GEORGE B. FINNEGAN, JR.

